Afonso III – the real Portuguese deal?

Samanta Pong & Fergus Fung on 18.08.2010

Restaurante Afonso III is not easy to find, and that is not because the location is obscure. It is indeed on a small one-way street, and it does not have a canopy that takes up half a block. Rather, it is the shop front that is a little out of place that makes one overlook its existence. Posters of Chinese opera concerts and other events crowd the tinted windows. With an unassuming old shop front, restaurant Afonso III has perched on a small street for the past 20 something years. The Portuguese owner, Afonso Carrao Pereira, has been a Macau resident since 1984. The fact that a majority of the regular patrons is from the Portuguese community in Macau says it all: this must be authentic Portuguese food. Or is it?

The service is “Mediterranean-style” slow; we walked in at 12:30pm when the waitress was enjoying her own lunch and she brusquely asked us to sit down without getting up from the chair. Looking around the small dining room, we were the first diners to arrive, and we secretly hoped that we were not the only ones there that day. It was ten minutes before we were able to order, and another good half an hour before the dishes came. We asked for the wine list and were told there was none, but that you can order any bottles stacked along the wall.

 

For lunch, we were recommended the clams in white wine and lemon sauce, the baked duck rice, and the grilled prawns. We wanted to try more dishes, but were promptly stopped by the waitress, who reckoned we had ordered enough. She was right. We were very satisfied after lunch.

The dishes arrived at the same time, as they were supposed to be shared. The portions were huge and each dish was piping hot. Clams in white wine and lemon sauce is an ubiquitous starter in Portuguese cuisine and the quality is determined by how fresh the clams are. Not only were the clams fresh that day, they were plump and juicy. The cilantro and garlic added the punch to the dish, and masked the unwelcomed fishy taste of clams that are not very fresh, although the latter function was unnecessary that day. The duck rice, with chunks of chorizos, was delicious and not dry at all. Served in a shallow casserole dish, the proportion of crunchy parts – the top and around the edge – was higher than usual and all the rice was gone in no time.

nch, we were recommended the clams in white wine and lemon sauce, the baked duck rice, and the grilled prawns. We wanted to try more dishes, but were promptly stopped by the waitress, who reckoned we had ordered enough. She was right. We were very satisfied after lunch.

 

The dishes arrived at the same time, as they were supposed to be shared. The portions were huge and each dish was piping hot. Clams in white wine and lemon sauce is an ubiquitous starter in Portuguese cuisine and the quality is determined by how fresh the clams are. Not only were the clams fresh that day, they were plump and juicy. The cilantro and garlic added the punch to the dish, and masked the unwelcomed fishy taste of clams that are not very fresh, although the latter function was unnecessary that day. The duck rice, with chunks of chorizos, was delicious and not dry at all. Served in a shallow casserole dish, the proportion of crunchy parts – the top and around the edge – was higher than usual and all the rice was gone in no time.

The first two dishes were certainly Portuguese, but the prawn dish was without a doubt a typical Macanese dish, as we found out after devouring 8 very fresh prawns that the dish is actually called Macanese prawns. Even so, we found the prawns to be flavoursome, and perfectly grilled, with a nice slightly spicy sauce that keeps you wanting more. All the dishes we had at lunch were very different but they all have a certain kick that made them very appetizing.

Between bites we noticed the restaurant was starting to fill up around 1pm. Regulars in a group head straight up to the first floor, whereas those dining solo sat down at one of the tables for two on the ground floor. They were all greeted warmly by the waitress, who chatted with them in half Chinese, half Portuguese. She later told us the owner does not care for publicity and is quite content with the loyal regulars, who probably dine there on a weekly basis.

The décor of the restaurant is by no means elaborate.  In fact, the basic design and furnishings do not seem to have been upgraded since the restaurant opened many years ago. However, this adds to the ambiance, and gives off the charm of a hidden gem. The attitude of the staff can be considered charming, especially if you are a regular, and the portions of the dishes were huge. The bill came to MOP500, including a glass of wine and some water. So is Afonso III a diamond in the rough then? We look forward to going back to find out more.

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