Snacking in Macau

Fergus Fung on 29.07.2010

It is a well-known fact that Macau is a "food city". From traditional Portuguese food to authentic Chinese cooking, there are many choices in this small city. For those who have additional stomach space for an extra meal or two, Macau also has many lip smacking offers when it comes to snacks.

Although the main attraction of the city is gambling, there remain many charming lanes and historic streets that make you forget you are in Asia. Tucked away on these small streets are these little snack joints. Despite the popularity of pork chop buns and Portuguese egg tarts, there are other fabulous local choices that are worth your time. Let's explore!

 

Souvenir #1 - Almond Cookies

Koi Kei Bakery (鉅記餅家) is probably the most famous souvenir shop in Macau. Since the first shop opened in 1997, it has expanded rapidly and now has ten shops in Macau and even two in Hong Kong! There are over 300 varieties of snacks being sold in the shops, with the most popular ones being the almond cookies, egg rolls (with varios fillings) and crunchy peanut candies.

Tsui Heung Bakery (最香餅家) - not to be confused with Choi Heung Yuen Bakery (咀香園餅家) which has similar Cantonese pronunciation - is the total opposite of Koi Kee. It doesn't have any branches, the staff do not hand out free samples on the street, and the shop does not have a food writer as a spokesperson. Instead, the team working at the shop is busy "assembling" almond cookies on an almond-flour covered bench; the "baker" places the flour into the mold and sprinkles almond slices in between layers of flour. The mixture is compressed so that the shape can be formed. Then the "baker" bangs the mold on the bench and the cookies fall out.

The only non-baker working there asked us how many boxes of almond cookies we would like; she is used to people buying dozens of boxes for the office and as souvenirs. We opted for a tube of mini plain almond cookies, a box of lard-filled ones, and a box with lard and salted egg yolk filling. Although a little skeptical about the lard-filled ones, the sales lady reassured us the lard only enhances the flavour and that the cookies are not greasy at all. What she forgot to tell us was that they are addictive and we finished the whole box within a day.

Dessert #1 - Double Skin Steamed Milk Pudding

Yee Shun Milk Company (義順鮮奶公司) is the most well-known steamed milk dessert joint and it has expanded its territory outside of Macau. For those who are not familiar with this popular dessert, it is milk and egg white custard that is slightly sweetened with sugar and is allegedly good for your complexion. The milk is boiled before steaming so that two layers of "skin" are formed.

Situated on the popular Rua De Cinco De Outubro, amongst the numerous tea shops and small eateries is the family-run Daliang Lixi Kee (大良李禧記崩沙), which specializes in Shunde snacks. This small eatery is truly a family-run establishment; on the day of our visit we found the grandmother being the only one in charge and her grandson sleeping on the floor with just a blanket underneath him. Grandma told us the double skin steamed milk pudding is made from buffalo milk from Shunde instead of cow's milk, so that even lactose intolerant visitors can give it a try.

The silky milk custard literally melts in your mouth, and is perfect hot or cold. We recommend ordering the cold one in the summer, as it is as cooling as a tall glass of milkshake but without the fat.

Since we had half an hour before heading to the ferry terminal, we stopped by at Nan Ping (南屏雅敍), which is a few blocks from Daliang Lixi Kee. Nan Ping is the oldest coffee house in Macau and is the first one to provide air-conditioning. The split-level eatery is packed around the clock and it is clear the most popular dish is the scrambled eggs sandwich as there is one on almost every table. It is a simple sandwich with scrambled eggs between two slices of bread, and as with all eggs made this way, texture is key. Here, the mouth-scorching scrambled eggs are fluffy with soft curds enveloping the middle that is just set. Washed down with the ice-cold coffee, it was the perfect snack finale before we boarded the ferry. Until our next trip!

 

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