When
it comes to taking on a national cuisine, Italians have strong values on
authenticity. In addition to that, standing strong to maintain a high standard
of consistency is never too much or too high of an expectation when it comes to
chefs on Italian cuisines. Having opened his first Asian outlet in Macau and 2
Michelin stars at his restaurant in Southern Italy later, Macau's Don Alfonso 1890
has become one of the quintessential labels for Italian cuisine in Macau. Chef Alfonso
took a moment to let us in on his philosophy and culinary quest to create a
piece of Southern Italy on this side of the world.
The
philosophy determines the values a chef believe in and how his culinary creations
are based on. Chef Alfonso, a true Italian chef, is every bit about the
characteristics of the cuisine that nests his culinary style, thus help shaping
the signature dishes at his restaurant. “At Don Alfonso 1890, we serve
authentic Southern Italian cuisine where the freshest and highest quality
ingredients are cooked in the most skillful and simplest ways to preserve their
original flavors,” explained Chef Alfonso. Italian cuisine has been known for
strong Mediterranean influence and the abundance of the fresh produce used. There
is little need for elaborate preparation which complicates and compromises the
ingredients’ freshness. Chef Alfonso knows exactly that when it comes to the
directions of his cooking and creating his signature dishes. “The Don Alfonso
Spaghetti and Neapolitan are very popular dishes among our regulars. That said,
every dish on the menu is a signature dish as they are all specially created to
balance the traditions of Southern Italian cuisine while retaining and
respecting the original flavors of the ingredients. “
Having
been an established chef in Italy, foodies across the region were excited about
the opening of Don Alfonso 1890 with equal parts thrill and anticipation. Chef
Alfonso explained how he came to opening his first Asian outlet in Macau. “I
was invited in 2007 by Mr. Alan Ho, the executive director of the Lisboa
Hotels, to open this restaurant in Macau, “ said Chef Alfonso, who understood
the magnitude of the invitation. “I felt that Mr. Ho and I shared the same
strong philosophy about culinary excellence and quality, and Ho’s passion and
commitment towards providing the best dining experience for customers and
setting the benchmark in the Food and Beverage industry gave me great
confidence to coming on board to open the Don Alfonso restaurant in Macau.”
With much assurance, Alfonso and Ho went on with opening the restaurant, with
no current plans for another one anywhere else in Asia.
It
may sound easy to pull of well-known Italian dishes as the restaurant’s
signatures, but the creative process takes more than pulling out a cookbook and
cook. “There is no fixed timeframe for the creation of a dish as several
factors have to come together, including a chef’s expertise and the
availability of special seasonal ingredients, especially because we only use
the freshest and best quality ingredients,” continued Chef Alfonso. “My
approach and inspiration comes from a combination of values from Southern
Italian customs, gastronomic traditions, to the respect I pay for fresh ingredients
and food products I use.”
When
asked about his best creation, Chef Alfonso wasn’t about to pick one from his
repertoire. “All my dishes are important creations. However, if I really must
name one as the best one, it’d be the Pastiere
Soufflé with Orange Blossom Sorbet, which is a very classic Napoleon
dessert we usually have during spring of every year. Traditionally the dessert
which is made with wheat and egg is heavy in texture, but I tweaked the recipe
a bit and turn it into a pastry form for a lighter, fluffier texture without
losing the original flavor of the dessert. I believe it offers a more balanced
palette for my customers. “
In
Sorrento, Italy, Chef Alfonso owns a vegetable garden where he keeps his supply
of raw materials dedicated to his cooking. With strong emphasis on freshness,
Chef Alfonso explains on re-creating Italian food in Macau. “The quality of
ingredients is very important. A qualified chef should have the ability to
define fresh ingredients. More than 75% of our ingredients are imported from
Italy as well as my farm in Sorrento while others are sourced from Macau. It is
also important to note that quality is not necessarily dependent on where it
comes from – it is the color, taste, smell, and texture that matters.” Given
the difference in availability of ingredients between places, so are the
different takes on food between people in Italy and Macau. “From what I’ve
observed, Chinese people prefer less salt in their food, and they also prefer
their pasta to be more ‘well-cooked’. “ Other than working in his Don Alfonso
1890 kitchen, Chef Alfonso has been actively engaged in developing an
impressive product line including an array of pasta, tomato sauce and olive
oil, but that’s not all, as he sheds light on his next venture in his own food
products. “We’re always interested in exploring new product offerings. We’re
currently looking into the possibility of breeding our own chicken, but we’re
at the initial stage of a very long process ahead of us. “
Having
shared his signatures and culinary experiences at the restaurant, Chef Alfonso
let us in on his absolute favorite. “I personal favorite dish from the menu is
the Carnaroli rice with almonds, Sicilian
red prawns, white peppercorn and crispy
mustard leaves. Almond risotto is an item of my childhood memory, as my
mother used to cook it for the family and I grew up loving it. I added Sicilian
red prawns to enrich the flavor in the dish’s presentation based on both my
creativity and family tradition. This is without a doubt my favorite dish in
the menu,” recalled Chef Alfonso, who also surprised many with his fruit-filled
fridge in his home. Despite an all-rounded chef himself, Chef Alfonso did draw
the line at a certain point. “I would never cook horse meat at my restaurant,
simply because I consider the horse as a really close animal ‘friend’ of mine.”
